Southern Upland Way – Part 3: St John’s Town of Dalry to Sanquhar

Day 5: St John's Town of Dalry to Chalk Memorial Bothy Rain at first light meant a bit of a lie in, and when I finally peeped out around 7am, I saw Afke packing up. She'd gone by the time I was properly up. I set off handrailing through the forest and went wrong almost … Continue reading Southern Upland Way – Part 3: St John’s Town of Dalry to Sanquhar →

Southern Upland Way – Part 2: Beehive Bothy to St John’s Town of Dalry

Day 3: Beehive Bothy to Caldons A cold night and I never felt quite warm enough, but I seemed to have slept ok. Partly because I wanted to cherish what warmth I had, I was slow in getting up, and when I did emerge found Afke on the point of leaving, and Wolfgang and Sophie … Continue reading Southern Upland Way – Part 2: Beehive Bothy to St John’s Town of Dalry →

Southern Upland Way – Part 1: Portpatrick to Beehive Bothy

Day 1: Portpatrick to Castle Kennedy A bowl of porridge with stewed rhubarb and scrambled eggs on toast inside me (I highly recommend the Harbour Lights Guest House in Stranraer), we headed to Tescos for a few lunch bits before getting the bus out to Portpatrick. Portpatrick seemed a pleasant seaside town. However, it had … Continue reading Southern Upland Way – Part 1: Portpatrick to Beehive Bothy →

The Southern Upland Way – Planning and Getting to the Start

A bit of Background The Southern Upland Way is one of the "Big 4" of Scotland's Great Trails, being one of the 4 dating back from the days of Long Distance Routes, and predating the re-badging of the English and Welsh ones as National Trails, and the Scottish ones as Great Trails. The Long Distance … Continue reading The Southern Upland Way – Planning and Getting to the Start →

Finishing the SWCP

When we started the South West Coast Path, back in 2008, we never expected that it would take until 2023 to finish it. At that time, we didn't even expect to do it all - it was just a pleasant revisit of the scene of some past family holidays. It was only after completing that … Continue reading Finishing the SWCP →

The Unglamourous Side to Backpacking (The Wessex Ridgeway Part 1)

A constant drip-drip from the trees above. The wind pushing the flysheet against the already damp inner, exacerbated by the fact I'd pitched on a slight slope. Condensation dripping from the roof of the tent through the mesh of the inner and onto my sleeping bag. A curious rustling noise that sounded like an animal … Continue reading The Unglamourous Side to Backpacking (The Wessex Ridgeway Part 1) →

Navigating the Clarendon Way

For its relatively modest length, the Clarendon Way, punches well above its weight in terms of opportunities to go wrong. I briefly alluded to some of these in my last post, but rather than fill that one up with the full details, I thought I'd stick them in a separate post. It's my hope that … Continue reading Navigating the Clarendon Way →

The North Downs Way Again – Part 6: Detling to Halling

After I abandoned the westbound walk at Detling in August, a few other bits of walking got in the way of picking it up again - a trip to Snowdonia in September, the West Highland Way in October, and not least the Kent Pilgrims' Festival in September. The latter involving walking all the way east … Continue reading The North Downs Way Again – Part 6: Detling to Halling →

The West Highland Way – Part 5: The End (Kinlochleven to Fort William)

Just one more day to do, but the longest daily distance of all, and a deadline to do it by. Our train was booked for 19:50, which shouldn't have been a problem, but nevertheless it was still a deadline. If you add time to clean up and have a celebratory pint and meal, the real … Continue reading The West Highland Way – Part 5: The End (Kinlochleven to Fort William) →

The West Highland Way – Part 4: The Good Bit (Tyndrum to Kinlochleven)

Breakfast in the Real Food Cafe set us up well for the day ahead. Back at the hotel we shouldered packs and grabbed parcels to drop off at the Post Office - although we could have simply walked up the main road from the hotel, we still had to do the bit of trail through … Continue reading The West Highland Way – Part 4: The Good Bit (Tyndrum to Kinlochleven) →

The West Highland Way – Part 3: That Accursed Loch! (Rowardennan to Tyndrum)

Whilst it was a shock to suddenly find myself solo, it wasn't a huge surprise and I'd mentally prepared myself for it - by now I can recognise the signs. And so, I strode out towards Ptarmigan Lodge not too discombobulated by the sudden change in my circumstances. Here was the well-known honesty stall, but … Continue reading The West Highland Way – Part 3: That Accursed Loch! (Rowardennan to Tyndrum) →

The West Highland Way – Part 2: To The Loch! (Milngavie to Rowardennan)

Milngavie really must be quite proud of the fact that the West Highland Way starts there, as they've taken every opportunity to draw your attention to the fact. Leaving the railway, there's various "to the West Highland Way" signs and the murals in the underpass before you get to the actual start point, itself with … Continue reading The West Highland Way – Part 2: To The Loch! (Milngavie to Rowardennan) →

The West Highland Way – Part 1: Introduction

Well, this post may be titled "Introduction", but this trail barely needs one. One of the more popular trails, maybe even the most popular of the Great Trails in Scotland, I felt as though I already knew it quite well before I even set foot on it. Which is, of course, nonsense, but it's fair … Continue reading The West Highland Way – Part 1: Introduction →